DENEST Retro Steampunk Wall Clock Decor Wall Air Plane Propeller Clock Ornament Design Industrial Wall Aviation Ornament for Cafe Bar (Have clock)

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This devise can be modifying as a computer based display board. A wireless system can be used to communicate between the PC and the device. This would let the user to display any massage easily on propeller display. delayMicroseconds(450); // for the gap between LED pixels/minutes markers (change the value according to motor speed. Increase for low speed, decrease for high speed motor) Remove the Arduino programmer and apply power to the POV base and motor. That's really all there is to it!

If you come up with any interesting modifications then I will gladly post a copy or a link to your new sketch with credits.

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Bend the LED strands as shown. It is very important to bend the legs exactly as shown, or the positive and negative can get mixed up. http://people.ece.cornell.edu/land/courses/ece4760/FinalProjects/f2012/cfz4_sjh234/cfz4_sjh234/FinalProjectDocumentation.html

Flip the pixelmap for the message board to be readable at the top or bottom (there is a #define constant already in code to select).The final schematics of the overall POV display design are shown below. There is a base PCB that mounts on the PC fan and a POV display PCB along with a secondary transformer coil that mounts at the center of the fan blades.

Since the phototransistor is only triggered by the IR radiation, an IR LED must be placed nearby. The intensity of the IR radiation determines how much current is generated in the photo transistor. Therefore a large current must flow through the LED to create a higher intensity. Figure 3 shows an IR LED circuit. The FSK modulator circuit shown above will function fine with RS232 either in the standard signaling format (-3 to -15V low, +3V to +15V high) or TTL levels (0V low, +3.3V to +5V high). The diode at the base of the transistor clamps the base of the transistor to ground to prevent negative signal voltages from causing damage to the transistor. I used the Schmitt buffer oscillator instead of a 555 timer because I anticipated a possible need to switch the transformer coil at > 500KHz, which is beyond the capabilities of the 555 timer. Also cheaper 555 timers actually tend to be 100KHz versions. Cut a piece of wire and strip both ends (small strip lengths). The wire should be long enough to connect the solder from step 3 to the top transistor solder/strand.Connect the 3.7V, 240mAh battery according to the circuit and don’t forget to add a single pole toggle slide switch on the positive lead for ON and OFF operation of the circuit. The obvious solution to the DC motor problem is to use a brushless DC (BLDC) motor for quiet long-lasting operation. BLDC motors are commonplace in the quintessential PC fan that are everywhere and inexpensive. Unfortunately, trying to source a simple brushless DC motor by itself without any attachment to something else like fan blades, disk or CD drive turns out to not be as easy as I thought. I even considered the BLDC motors used in quadcopters, but those are designed for very high RPMs and require a separate motor controller that typically expects PWM. Furthermore, I did buy and play around with a quadcopter BLDC motor. It turns out that running a quadcopter BLDC motor at low RPM produces a high pitched whine, which is clearly unacceptable for a display that is not supposed to annoy everyone near it. In the end, I decided to use a 60x60mm PC fan as the motor and designed a base PCB around it.

Flip the pixelmap for the time to be readable at the top or bottom (there is a #define constant already in code to select). On the front, This pin will connect to the last LED. For easy reference, when flipped over each digital pin connects to its closest positive LED strand/pin. This is how the LED's will be soldered to their respective Digital Pin. It's a bit confusing to explain but very easy to follow if you look at the picture. Here is a calculation for calculate the rotation speed of the LEDs when a picture is displayed with a frame rate of 25Hz. Insert a Green LED into the holes with the long leg on the left side. Now from the copper side, bend its legs to one side (Green LED’s i.e. LED 12 – LED 16 via R12 to R16 and A5 to A1 respectively). Insert the Blue Led above the green led as shown in fig (Blue LED 17 via R17 and A7). Connect R17 as 2.2kΩ and join the cathode of this LED to the cathode of other LED’s. Now, connect the positive leg of this Led to one end of the resistor R17 and the other end to the Arduino +5V pin.

Now, Mount the whole project to a chipboard with the help of a toy DC motor. Keep in mind that if you use a powerful motor for high speed, you may use a 9V to 12V battery instead. Before cutting any strands, make sure the LED's are all straight. if a few seem crooked, just apply heat to the solders you made to straighten them out. Careful not to burn your fingers! Mechanical assembly plays a main role in proper functioning of this project. The display is displays the time by rotating the whole assembly in a circular path.